FABRIC CONSUMPTION CALCULATION

The quantity of fabric which is required to produce a garment is called consumption. How much fabric is required to produce a garment, we can determine it through marker planning and mathematical system. We can calculate and determine the consumption of fabric by the following two systems:

Marker Planning System
In the system mentioned here studying the range of size, following six pcs of six sizes can be sorted out from size range. As in XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Besides these we can choose three pcs of three size or twelve pcs of twelve sizes for our convenience. It depends on our intelligence and the size range; thereafter paper pattern can be made by grading to the above garments as per measurement sheet. Having made the paper pattern it should have to lay each parts of the paper pattern on a marker paper of similar fabric width. After marking the paper pattern if we measure marker paper to length wise, we will find an aggregate consumption of six pcs of garment. If the aggregate is divided by six, we will find a consumption of one pc garment. As such we will find a consumption of one dozen garments from the above system calculations.

Mathematical System
Whatever is the fabric consumption of a garment or whatever quantity of fabric is required to produce a garment is measured by mathematical system। Mathematical system is a system of rough estimation. Consumption of a sample garment or consumption as per measurement sheet is calculated mathematically by measuring the area of length and width of each parts of each pcs of garment.

Fabric Consumption Calculation of a Basic Shirt

QUALITY CONTROL (Q.C) & INSPECTION PROCEDURE OF THE ORGANIZATION

· At first they hand over the order to two of their merchandisers and two Q.C. people. This team is responsible for this order. Every morning, first they discuss the whole status in the daily meeting with the CEO.

· FTI makes the sample as per final changes and comments from buyer on products. Q.C and merchandiser study together the P.O with approved fit samples and the comments from buyer.

· Merchandiser & Q.C also check all the fabrics & accessories to make sure the quality, color & quantity conforms to the order / style.

· Q.C and merchandiser go to factory to evaluate pre production (size set) sample, patterns, etc with the factory production people and approve for trial production.

· Quality Assurance (Q.A) inspector evaluates trial production and then approve for bulk production.

· Q.A inspector goes for inline inspection when bulk production is started.

· At the middle stage of production if standard of quality is acceptable, then they go for pre-final inspection. Here we check the case pack, carton quality, shipping mark, assortment, presentation etc.

· After pre-final result is acceptable, then they go for final inspection and if it passes they approve the shipment.

HOW THE ORGANIZATION EXECUTES ORDER

· The personnel reply any fax / e-mail message at the same day.

· After receiving the inquiry, first they check the sketch, details sheet, delivery date and sample if have।
They work out price by these, then they offer & confirm price to buyer as soon as possible।

· After confirmation of price and delivery, they request buyer to issue purchase order sheet with full order
details।

· After receiving and reviewing the purchase order, they request buyer to open L/C.

· After receiving the L/C, they transfer it to the related factory.

· After the factory receives export L/C, they ask factory to open back to back L/C for fabrics & accessories
as soon as possible।

· They monitor the Fabric & Accessories from booking, production, shipment to the factory.

· They take all the necessary approval on fabrics, accessories, and garment sample from buyer.

· After receiving all fabric, accessories at hand, they make pre-production & size set sample for approval to
start production।

· After production start they go for inspection to ensure quality.
· After final inspection they ship the goods.

· They follow up stuffing vessel booking, Expected Time of Arrival, Expected Time of Departure, and update
buyer accordingly।

· They follow-up shipping documents from factories to submit to their bank on time so the buyer can
receive the doc’s in a timely manner and prepare clearing formalities of their goods।

CHRONOLOGICAL PROCESS OF MERCHANDISING

SEWING THREAD
The thread we choose for any sewing project should be similar in fiber content to that of our fabric. Cotton, polyester & cotton/poly threads are the most widely used.

Steps of Choosing the Appropriate Thread:
(i) Choose a color thread that matches the most dominant color in our fabric. If we are unable to find a perfect match, select a thread that is one or two shades darker. Stitches made with a lighter shade of thread will stand out.
(ii) Use cotton thread for light to medium-weight fabrics that have little or no stretch to them. Cotton thread will not "give," and the stitches may break if used on a stretchy knit fabric.

(iii) Use polyester thread for most hand and machine stitching. This thread is most suitable for synthetic fabrics or fabrics with a lot of stretch to them. The finish of this thread, however, can appear waxy or shiny.

(iv) Use a cotton-wrapped polyester thread for most sewing projects. This thread is usually labeled "all-purpose" and is the thread we will see most frequently in fabric stores. It is suitable for all types of fabrics and for both hand and machine sewing.

(v) Use fine cotton or silk thread on very thin or delicately woven fabrics such as those used for lingerie or sheer garments. Silk thread is more elastic than cotton, so option for silk if our garment fabric has any stretch to it at all.

(vi) Look for thread labeled "heavy duty" for projects that require extra strength and durability in stitches. For example, an upholstery project that uses very heavy or stiff fabric will require heavy-duty thread. Some apparel items made with a similar type of fabric will also require this thread.

(vii) Use metallic thread for both machine and hand embroidery. Make sure, however, that the thread we use for machine embroidery is labeled suitable for machine sewing.

(viii) Use quilting thread for our hand or machine quilting projects and for projects that are similarly layered. Most quilting thread is all-cotton and has a finish that allows the thread to slip more easily through the fabric and batting layers.
LABELS : Main, Size, Care, Content, price, patch etc.
BUTTON : Horn, Metal etc
ELASTIC : Cotton, Polyester etc.
EYELET : Antique Matching etc
VELCRO : Hook & Pile
STRING/CORD: Cotton, Polyester etc.
PLASTIC CLIP
TAGS : Price tag, Hand Tag
STICKER : Hook & Pile
TAGPIN
HANGER
POLYBAG
Strength: Chemical Mixture
Thickness (micron/mm: 1 mm = 1000 micron)
Elasticity, Transparent, LDPE (Low Density Poly Ethylene), PP (Poly Propylene)
BLISTER BAG :(.05 mm) : Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag
SCOTCH TAPE
GUMTAPE
CARTON: 3ply, 5ply, Size (L, W. H)

CHRONOLOGICAL PROCESS OF MERCHANDISING

1. Salesman Samples, Counter Samples, Approval Samples, Photo samples, Pre­production Samples, Production Samples, Shipping samples.
2. Swatch, and Trims, Trim's Related Affairs

Sample: Reference garment corresponds to:
· The artwork (styling) done by designer and/or developer
· Particular purchase order.
· Any revision to the style work.
· Conform to any specific requirement.


Sequence Of Sampling
1ST Pattern → 2ND Pattern → Counter Sample → Salesman Sample → Photo Sample → Approval Sample (Size Set, Mock-Up) →Pre- Production Sample → Production Sample → Shipping Sample.

First Pattern
First pattern is the first physical version of any garment as per the artwork done by designer and for developer.
Human Mind → Sketch → Paper Pattern → Sample

Purpose : See the design work & test the fitting
Status : Nothing specific
Material : Available
Price : Not confirmed
Quantity : 1 (for customer) + 1 (for merchandiser)
Delivery : As per urgency
Second Pattern
Usually designer /developer always ask for some changes to the first pattern. Second pattern is made as per comments.

Counter Sample
Where first pattern is made on designers artwork, Counter sample is to make not on designer's artwork, has to follow another sample given by the merchandiser.

Purpose : See the workmanship &test the factory skill
Status : Nothing specific
Materials : Available
Price : Not confirmed
Quantity : 1 (for customer) + 1 (self keeping)
Delivery : As per request

Salesman Sample
Salesman sample is made when price is confirmed and orders are on speculation, usually in l size in all color combinations of expected order. Buyer held a meeting with its customer and record their response on order quantity per color, size etc. And finally place order to their vendor.
Purpose : Sales meeting by retailers, market appraisal &
Demand / order forecast
Status : Final stage of the order confirmation
Material : Actual
Price : Confirmed
Quantity : There is minimum quantity per color combination
Delivery : Very, important to meet the delivery date.
Photo Sample
Photo samples are made with actual color and material to be worn by the models on the event of shooting for catalog.
Approval Sample
In any discrete period of time, whenever it required any revision in the sample, a new sample is made (some times mock-up is workable too) as per new specification. It is sent to buyer for his approval of the conformity that-the revision is done correctly.
SIZE SET: Consists of 1 pc from each size for each color combination.
MOCK UP: Any PART of the garment to make-for PARTICULAR purpose, not complete garment
Pre- Production Sample
When material for bulk production arrived, factory makes a sample with the actual material and sends to buyer.

Production Sample
It is a reference to the buyer that the bulk is being produced as per specifications. Buyer wants to be assured that correct material is sourced & line workmanship conformed to the quality level.

Shipping Sample
A sample is kept from every Pre-Shipping inspection to be referred, if required, after the order has been delivered. Usually for any disputes (e.g. Claim) shipping samples is important.
Swatch
Swatch is a presentation of all the materials is (Fabric & Accessories) used for any specific style /order. Usually small piece of fabric and each piece of accessories are attached in board paper in a systematic manner. Swatch is very important for production line to make the correct construction of a garment and QC department ensures it. Concerned merchandiser should confirm/approve the swatch.

Trims
Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, Proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers.
Following is a part of list that covers some names of the trims:

Zipper/Fastener
Teeth : Nylon, Vislon, Metal
Color : Tape Color, Teeth Color
Size : #3, #5, #8 etc.
Length : As per requirement 18 cm, 72 cm
End : Close End (C/E), Open End (O/E)
Slider : One Way, Reversible.

QUALIFICATIONS OF A GOOD MERCHANDISER

Good command in English and adequate knowledge of technical terms for accurate and efficient communication.
Good knowledge of fiber, yarn. Fabric, Dyeing. Printing, Finishing, Dyes, Colorfastness, Garments production, etc.
Clear conception of the usual potential quality problems in the garments manufacturing.
Good knowledge of the usual raw materials inspection systems & garments inspection systems.
Knowledge of the quota system used in each of the producing countries', duty rates, customs regulations, shipping and banking documentation etc।

Merchandiser-A Data Bus Between Buyer & Seller

Merchandiser is he who builds up relationship with the buyer and acts as a seller. He plays a vital role in an organization in a sense that he bears more responsibility than other in regards to execution of an order. The responsibilities that he bears on the jobs are as follows:
He represents as a buyer to the factory.
He represents as a seller to the buyers.
He inspects Quality as a buyer (from the buyer’s point of view).
He looks into the business to flourish more in future.
He tries to offer the deal more competitive without compromising the Quality.
His object is to satisfy the buyers to progress more of the future business.
His aim is to impress the buyers by means of
(i) Right Product.
(ii) Right Quality.
(iii) Right Quantities.
(iv) Schedule Time

GOVERNMENT SUPPORTING POLICIES

An extensive program of incentives, to expedite investment in the country, is now in place covering
· No Ceiling for investment
· Tax holiday of up to 10 years
· Tax-exemption and duty-free importation of capital machinery and spare parts for 100% export oriented industries
· Residency permits for foreign nationals including citizenship
· Easy capital profit and divided repatriation facilities
· Double taxation avoidance
· Tax-exemption on the interest payable on foreign loans
· Taka convertible on current account etc.

GARMENTS MERCHANDISING

The "Merchandising" is known to the persons specially involved in garments trade. The term merchandising has been derived from the merchandise. Merchandise means goods that are bought & sold.
The term "Merchandising" may be defined as Person who merchandises the goods, specifically for export purposes। Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within schedule time. From the above definitions, we can say that a person involved in garments merchandising needs a wide range of knowledge & skill to perform his job successfully. The job itself is Technical and general as well.

GENERAL DUTIES OF A MERCHANDISER
· Costing.
· Determination of Fabric requirement.
· Determination Accessories requirement (e.g. Thread, Button, Interlining, Label, Poly Bag, Carton etc)
· Sourcing of fabrics.
· Sourcing of accessories.
· Possible date of arrival of fabrics & accessories in the garments factory.
· Garments production planning.
· Inspection schedule
· Shipping documents.